After safely departing Xi’an, we settled into our “rustic” train accommodations. It was the first moment in the trip where a few travelers may have questioned the wisdom of coming along. The train was old and rickety, the toilets (if you can call them that) a throwback, and our bunks a little stiff. By bedtime the group had rallied and there was plenty of laughter to be had. Sleep was another question. Many people got some sleep, a few got a bunch, while others like myself got very little. It was the station stops and the big lurch that would nearly knock one out of bed that kept me awake. Morning came and so did the stop in Pingyao.